I‘ve been wondering which are the ideal ND filters set-up for my 16-35mm Cannon wide-angle lens for shooting landscape photography. Battle always rolls between screw-on and rectangular filters. For a long time I worked on HOYA gray filters (mainly HOYA PRND 1024 limiting the amount of light by 10 apertures). My feelings were rather less enthusiastic, because such filters are terribly annoying in the winding. It was a bad shot that detached from the lens. I did not want to buy more transient filters, I decided on the Lee 100 system with the Lee foundation kit and the 82mm wide ring corresponding to the diameter of my lens. I mainly use 3 Lee 10 stop filters, 6 stop Little stopper and Supper stopper. I will try to evaluate them in terms of some criteria:
Filter strength and handle: The Lee filters are very robust because they have a strong glass and not optically corrected resin or other additives. They clean their wipes with optics without leaving any streaks. During the expedition, they are kept in safe, tin-plated boxes which are equipped with protective sponges. As for the strength of the handle itself, I can recommend it because of the quality of the handle. It is not pure plastic or aluminum and stronger alloy. Still it is not a metal unfortunately as with NISI filters.
Actual density of filters: Many photographers complain that filter divergences recorded in specifications are not reliable and helpful in calculating long exposure, as their actual transmittance leads either to overexposure or underexposure. Lee filters, there are no discrepancies between the number of alloys in the specification and the actual value. Lee filters, there are no discrepancies between the number of alloys in the specification and the actual value. I work on the histogram every time I take a photo and have never seen an X-ray or the opposite effect.
Bliks or Light Leakage: This optical phenomenon is a reflection of light. Some photographers are complaining about files caused by the use of rectangular filters. In the case of Lee filters I occasionally encounter this phenomenon, and if it is due to my fault, I know that I have not covered the viewfinder or the gap between the handle and the filter. Unfortunately, such a fault is inscribed in the use of such systems, so you need to be well protected. Visiting the viewfinder is a must if the light is just behind our back or side. Even though the filters have a specially glued knob, they can pass through small light beams.
sdfdfd As long as the circular polarizer has an inner thread, you can use a LEE adapter ring and then attach the holder and filter. That way rotate the polarizer an adjust the ND with ease. I use this system all the time without incident.
It is therefore good to cover the gap between the filter and the lens. Probably the most exotic treatment I have encountered is the tape sealing around the plug that covers the entrance to the trigger. But the precaution never too much.
Bule Color Cast and linear polarizer: The color temperature in the Kelkins says clearly that the 10-stop Bigg Stopper filters the picture slightly in blue. Often it is so subtle that it does not even require a lot of fun with white balance, but if someone interferes with the kelvin slider, it’s a hole in the lightroom or another photo processor. You can do this just before taking a photo by entering the white balance option. As for, polarizing filters lee filters are circular polarizers, that is, the polarization process is better because these filters are equipped with a special multi-phase polarizer which effectively protects against the loss of sharpness of the image. The light is running smoothly.
